Mansudae Grand Monument, Kim Il-Sung 2002 in the Mansudae district
Arrival in Pyongyang – Between Formalities and Fascination
On the occasion of a trade fair (Sept. 2002), I had the opportunity to actually set foot
on North Korean soil. The journey went from Seoul via Beijing, since South Korean airlines
have no landing rights.
Wow, what an experience! The heavily made-up stewardesses of the North Korean airline, which,
if I remember correctly, was called “Koryo,” pulled back the curtains at the front of the aircraft
like in a theater and introduced themselves. Right next to the exit lay a thick rope, probably intended
for emergency evacuation. Aside from me, only a few passengers were on board—some trade fair participants
and North Koreans. I suspect most of the Korean passengers were government attachés. They were not exactly
talkative—rather extremely reserved.
Passport control at the airport in Pyongyang went smoothly. The officer sat in a kind of wooden cage;
you had to hand your passport up to him, and he was barely visible. A mirror was installed so he could
see the passport holders. I had to hand in both my mobile phones. I had specifically packed my German
phone to try connecting to the GSM network reportedly built by German companies. Outside the airport,
black Mercedes S-Class limousines were waiting to pick up the attachés. I had to wait for some German
company representatives from Seoul and the trade fair organizer from Munich.
We then took a bus into the city to bow before the statue of Kim Il-Sung—a legal requirement from
Kim Jong Il at the time. Well, I was a guest, so I did what everyone else did: stood before the statue
and bowed deeply.
Pyongyang, seen from the hotel directly at the Taedong River. In the background the huge, mysterious pyramid that is supposed to become a hotel.
First Impressions of the City
I perceived Pyongyang as rather deserted. On the way to the hotel, I saw only a few people. Some carried
heavily sagging backpacks—it looked like they were transporting metal parts. Others pulled carts and
appeared completely worn out. Traffic was nearly nonexistent, like New Year’s Day back home.
Intersections were directed by uniformed women with an unmistakably graceful style.
In the middle of the city stood a gigantic pyramid-shaped building. A rusty crane protruded from the top.
Only later did I learn that the mysterious structure had supposedly been under construction for 20 years.
The city itself appeared very tidy and clean, even with a floral scent. But then again, there were hardly
any vehicles and no smoking factories in sight.
At the Hotel
The hotel—whose name I unfortunately cannot remember—was located on the outskirts, right at the Taedong River. It was simple but comparable to Western standards. I still remember the beds covered with pink silk blankets. The only TV channel showed operettas, probably praising the beloved leader. In the evenings, I was even able to watch CNN briefly, meaning they must have had a satellite dish. The food was excellent. The lobby restaurant even served well-tasting draft beer—likely learned from East Germans. Payment was made by credit card, based on US dollars.
At the Trade Fair
The next day we went to the trade fair with German company representatives.
There were only about 30 stands. Our stand was right at the entrance and therefore very busy.
Many older North Koreans visited and spoke fluent German. Pyongyang had had strong economic and educational
ties with East Germany during the GDR era.
That also explained the good beer at the hotel—presumably brewed on East German-supplied equipment.
One visitor asked how he could sell gold. What he probably really wanted was a contact to the outside world.
A whole delegation of young people came to practice English. They believed the border to South Korea would open
the next day.
Siemens trade fair stand
Thoughts and Insights
After three days, the fair ended. For the visitors, it seemed more like a rare opportunity to meet foreigners than to learn about new technology or do business. On the last day, the German Embassy invited me for a small reception where UN representatives were also present. Political topics were carefully avoided, but one embassy staff member conveyed the idea that an economic opening might be possible and that companies in the energy and healthcare sectors could find opportunities.