Travel Report Pyongyang, North Korea, International Exhibition (ITIE)

Original Statue of Kim Il-Sung in Pyongyang

On the occasion of an international fair (Sept. 2002) I had the opportunity to actually enter the North Korean side. The journey took place from Seoul via Beijing, because South Korean airlines have no approach rights. Boy, what an experience! The redpowdered stewardesses of the North Korean airline, which, if I remember correctly was called "Koryo Airlines", withdrew the curtains in front of the first seat row back as in a theater and introduced themselves. Right next to the exit there was a thick rope, most likely for an emergency situation, in order to rappel off the plane. Apart from me, there were only a few passengers on board, some trade fair participants and some North Koreans. I suspect that the majority of Korean passengers were Korean Government attachés. They weren't exactly talkative (not to say: very secretive).

The Passport control at the airport in Pyongyang went quite smoothly. The officer was sitting in a kind of wooden cage, one had to pass up his passport whereby he was not visible at all. It was somehow a mirror attached which made the passport holders visible to him. Then I had to hand over my two mobile phones. The German mobile phone which I had packed extra to get into the GSM network was also taken. In Seoul they told me that connections to the cell network may be possible as it was believed to be established by the Germans. Outside the airport building there were several brand new and polished black Limousines (Mercedes S-class) waiting to pick-up the Government attachés. I still had to wait for some German Company representatives from Seoul and the trade fair organiser from Munich before we were coaching with the Bus into the city in order to bow before the statue of Kim Il Sung. This was a legal provision of Kim Jong Il, the then leader of North Korea. Well, I was a guest of the country, and like the others I deeply bowed down to him.

The City of Pyongyang itself I perceived as quite empty. On our way to out Hotel I didn't see a lot of people. Some were on their way with heavy backpacks. It looked as if they were carrying iron pieces around in it. Others pulled carts and saw pretty worn out to me.The traffic was like with us on New Year's Day except for a few vehicles. The street crossings were regulated from uniformed inimitably gracefully women.
In the middle of the city a huge pyramid-shaped building was immediately noticeable on our way. A rusty crane stood out from the top of the pyramid. The rather mysterious building was supposed to be in construction already since 20 years, I learned later. It will probably be finished by now. Otherwise I considered the city very well-kept and clean, it even smelled of flowers. But there were also so well like no traffic and smoking chimneys I didn't see anywhere.

The Hotel, whose name I unfortunately forgot, was located on the outskirts of the city, directly on the Taedong River. It was rather simple but comparable with western standards. I still remember very well the beds were covered with of a pink silk blanket. In the television, Korean operettas were broadcasted on the only adjustable channel. Most likely these were homages to the beloved leader. In the evening I surprisingly even saw CNN for a short time, so the Hotel must have had a satellite dish on top of the roof. The food was excellent and in the lobby bar they even served tasty draught beer. The North Koreans must have learned to tap beer from the East Germans. Bills were accepted by credit card on the basis of US dollar of course.

On the following day we went to the fair together with other German company representatives. There were not so many exhibition booths, maybe 30. Our booth was right next to the Entrance and therefore also very well visited. Many old North Koreans came by who were quite fluent in German. Well, North Korea stood in the brisk economic and education-political exchange with the former GDR. This also explained the art of brewing and the good beer which was served in the hotel. The beer was probably brewed in a beer plant supplied by the East Germans. One of the visitors to the fair came up to me and wanted to know how he could sell gold. What he probably really wanted, were any outside contacts. A whole delegation of young people came to practice English. They were of the opinion that the border to South Korea would open tomorrow.

The fair ended after three days and was for the visitors a great opportunity to get in touch with foreigners rather to get to know the latest technology or to establish any business contacts at all. On the last day the German Embassy invited us then also for a small snack attended by representatives of the UN. The political was deliberately ignored in the talks, but members of the embassy conveyed the idea of an economic opening of the country and great opportunities for Companies in the energy and healthcare sectors.